Antique Crochet Shell Motif Pattern

This is a beautiful vintage crochet motif pattern that I hope you will put to good use making blankets, doilies, afghans, table cloths and more. There are endless possibilities for motif uses.

vintage crochet shell motif

Make these Medallions of fine or heavy thread and join into lovely Luncheon Sets, Table Runners, Tablecloths, Buffet Sets or odd Doilies.

MATERIALS-Daisy Mercerized Crochet Cotton in size 10 to 50. Crochet hook size 7 to 14.

SHELL MOTIF - Square – Ch 18, dc in 9th st from hook, (ch 2, dc in next 3d st) 3 times. * Ch 5, turn, sk last dc, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) twice, ch 2, dc in next 3d st. Repeat from * twice.

1st Row-Ch 3, 2 dc over bar of last dc, * (dc in next st, 2 dc over next space) 3 times, dc in 3d st of corner 5-ch, ch 1, turn, sl st in last 4 dc, ch 11, sk 5 dc, sl st in next 4 sts. Turn, (ch 2, dc in next 2d st of 11 -ch) 5 times, ch 2, sl st in next 3d dc, ** 4 dc in same corner st of 5-ch, 2 dc over bal. of corner 5-ch. Repeat from * twice and from * to **. 3 dc in same corner st of 5-ch, sl st in 1st 3-ch.

2nd Row-Ch 1, * (3 sc over next 2-Ch, sc in dc) 5 times, 3 sc over next 2-Ch, sc in next 2 dc in corner, ch 5, sl st in last sc for a p, sc in same dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * 4 times. Fasten off.

3rd Row-join again to sc at center-top of next scallop, * ch 7, sc in 5th st from hook for a p, ch 2, tr tr in p between scallops, (ch 5, sc in 1st st of 5-ch for a p, ch 1, tr tr in same p with last tr tr) 7 times, ch 6, p, ch 3, sc in sc at center-top of next scallop. Repeat from * 3 times.

4th Row-Ch 3 for a dc, * ch 5, p, ch 1, dc in next tr tr, (ch 6, P, ch 2, dc in next tr tr) 7 times, ch 5, p, ch 1, dc in sc between next 2 ps. Repeat from * around and join to 3d st of 1st loop.

5th Row-Ch 4, dc in next dc, * (ch 5, a 2-dc-Cluster in 1st st of 5-ch, ch 1, dc in next dc) 7 times, (ch 1, dc in next dc) twice. Repeat from * around, joining final 1-ch to 3d st of 1st 4-Ch. Fasten off.

To join Motifs, make 5th Row as follows: Ch 4, dc in next dc, * (ch 5, a Cluster in I st st, ch 1, dc in next dc) * twice, ** ch 7, sl st in the corresponding dc on 2d Motif, ch 7, sl st back in last dc, ** (ch 5, a Cluster in I st st, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 4, sl st in next dc on 2d Motif, ch 4, sl st back in dc) twice. Repeat from * to *, from ** to **, and from * to * twice. (Ch 1, 1 dc in next dc) twice. Continue around in same way to join to further Motifs.

FILL-IN MOTIF-Repeat Motif thro the 1st Row.

2nd Row-* (3 sc over next 2-Ch, sc in dc) 3 times, ch 6, p, ch 5, p, ch 3, sl st in center of 7-ch joining of Motifs, ch 7, p, ch 5, p, ch 2, sl st back in last sc, (3 sc over next 2-Ch, sc in dc) twice, 3 sc over next 2-Ch, sc in next 2 dc, ch 7, p, (ch 5, p) twice, ch 3, sl st in center dc on side of Motif, ch 7 p, (ch 5, p) twice, ch 2, sc back in same dc with last sc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * 3 times. Fasten off.

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3 Crochet Sock Patterns

Many crocheters think they cannot make socks. Here are 3 nice crochet sock patterns that you can use to make your own handmade socks that will keep your feet toasty and warm. Crochet socks are a bit thicker than knit ones, but if you use sock weight or lace weight yarn you can wear them in your boots without too much bulk. Use thicker yarn to wear them as sock slippers.

Sue’s Crochet Socks Pattern

crochet socks pattern

http://www.crochetandknitting.com/socks.htm

Ultimate Crochet Socks Pattern (toe-up)

crochet socks pattern

http://www.crochetme.com/media/p/89746.aspx

Basic Crochet Socks Pattern

easy crochet sock pattern

This crochet socks pattern has great images of the sock as it progresses.

http://www.crazycoley.com/2009/01/basic-crochet-sock.html

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Knit 2 Socks at Once – Vintage Knitting Techniques

Here is a challenge for the experienced sock knitters out there. This tip comes from an article posted in the Needlecraft magazine in 1918. During war efforts, women knitted socks fast and furious for the troops. Women would often brag about being able to turn a heel in the dark of a movie theater or being able to knit two socks at one time.

Here is Mrs. Reeders explanation of how to knit two socks at one time on one set of needles.

How To Knit Two Socks at Once
By MRS. A REEDER

Wind your yarn in two balls; use one
set of needles, but cast on twice the
number of stitches that would be
required for one sock, using first the
yarn from one ball, then from the other.
Have 40 stitches on each of two needles,
and 48 on the third. Hold one thread
over the right forefinger in the usual
American way, the other on the left
forefinger. The 1st thread (over right
forefinger) is used to purl the 1st or
upper stitch, and the 2d thread (over
left forefinger) to knit the 2d or lower
stitch, unless otherwise directed. By
bearing this in mind the work is greatly
simplified; but one must be careful not
to get “mixed up” in alternating the
stitches.
The ribbed top of the stocking is about
a finger-length, or four inches, and if
found too difficult to do with two
threads the ribbing may be done sep-
arately; then join the socks by putting
one inside the other and knitting the
stitches alternately, first from one,
then from the other, until you have
transferred them to one set of needles.
For the ribbing: (Purl 1st stitch, knit
2d) twice, (knit 1st stitch, purl 2d)
twice; repeat. You will see that you thus
get the double rib( of knit 2. purl 2) on
each sock, working off 8 stitches for one
repeat instead of 4 stitches, as would be
the case were you knitting the socks
separately.
Having finished the ribbing, purl 1st
stitch and knit 2d until the leg of sock
measures eleven inches. Remember to
alternate the threads, always, beginning
a needle with the 1st thread if the pre-
ceding needle ended with the 2d.
For the heel: take 66 stitches on one
needle, and knit and purl back and
forth on these for about two and one-
half inches, slipping the first 2 stitches
of each row. Holding inner side of
socks toward you, slip 2 stitches (1
stitch of each sock), knit and purl 36
stitches, narrow with each thread (thus:
Purl 2 together, letting the stitch be-
tween these 2, or the 2d stitch, slip
off, pick up this stitch and knit 2 to-
gether), then purl 1st and knit 2d
stitch, turn; slip 2, purl and knit 14,
narrow, purl 1 and knit 1, slip 2,
purl and knit 16, narrow, purl and knit
1, turn; slip 2, knit 18, narrow, knit 2
(remembering always that the 1st stitch,
or that for which the right-hand thread
is used, is purled, and the 2d or left is
knitted, alternately), turn; slip 2, knit
20, narrow, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 22,
narrow, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 24, nar-
row, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 26, nar-
row, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 28, nar-
row, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 30, nar-
row, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 30, narrow,
turn, and continue until all the stitches
are narrowed off. Now pick up 12
stitches on side of each heel, alter-
nately purling and knitting, until there
are 24 stitches on 1st needle, purl and
knit across 2d needle, pick up the
stitches on other side of each heel, 24 in

Knitting 2 socks at once

all, for 3d needle, and divide the 34
stitches on upper part of heel, putting 16
stitches on 1st needle and 18 stitches
on 3d; also transfer 8 stitches from 2d
needle to 1st, and 8 stitches from 2d
needle to 3d. There should now be 48
stitches on 1st needle, 46 on 2d needle
and 50 stitches on 3d needle. Knit
once around plain (remembering the
alternate purling and knitting), knit to
within 10 stitches of end of 1st needle,
narrow, knit across 2d needle and 6
stitches on 3d, narrow, and finish the
round plain. Repeat last 2 rounds, nar-
rowing in the same place every other
round until there remain 120 stitches in
all; divide these equally, 40 on each
needle, and knit until the foot is nine
inches in length.
To shape the toe: Knit 10, (purl and knit),
narrow; repeat; knit 5 rounds plain; knit
8, narrow, repeat; knit 4 rounds; knit 6,
narrow, repeat knit 3 rounds; knit 4,
narrow, repeat; knit 2 rounds; knit 2,
narrow, repeat; knit 1 round; knit 1,
narrow; repeat; knit 1 round. Repeat last
2 rounds until 24 stitches remain, break
the yarn, leaving eight or ten inches of
each thread, pull out the needles carefully,
separate the socks, and finish off as fol-
lows: thread a small darner or blunt-pointed
worsted needle with the yarn; have the 12
stitches evenly divided, 6 stitches on each
of 2 needles, laid together, * put needle
through 1st stitch on 1st needle as if to
knit it, draw through and take off, insert
needle in next stitch on same needle as if
to purl, draw through but do not take off;
insert needle as if to purl in 1st stitch
of opposite knitting-needle, draw through
and take off, insert needle in next stitch
of same needle as if to knit, draw through
but do not take off; repeat until all the
stitches are off, always keeping the
yarn between the 2 needles as you
work. Finish off by darning the end
neatly.

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Vintage Crochet Sunlight Hat

While this vintage sun hat pattern may be slightly out of style, the crochet stitch pattern is really very lovely. Give it a try, you can always alter the style of the hat to make it more modern.

Vintage crochet hat pattern

Materials: Clark’s O.N.T. (5 balls) or J. & P. Coats (3 balls) Mercerized Crochet, size 30, color 9 Yellow. Milward’s steel crochet hook No. 7. 2 yds. millinery wire and 2 yds. of ribbon.

Crown. Beginning at tip, ch 10, join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: * Ch 10, s c in ring, repeat from * until 24 loops are made, then ch 6.

2nd rnd: S c in 1st loop, * ch 5, s c in next loop, repeat from * around, ending, with s c under ch-6 of previous rnd.

3rd rnd: Ch 5, s c in each loop with ch-5 between s cs.

4th rnd: * Ch 3, 5 d c under next loop, ch 3, s c in next loop, ch 4, s c in same loop, repeat frorn * until 12 5-d c groups are made, then ch 3,

s c in next loop, ch 5, s c in next loop, ch 2, s c in first d c of 5-d c group.

5th rnd: Ch 5 (to count as tr and ch-1), tr in each of next 4 d c with ch-1 between each tr, * ch 4, s c in next ch-4 loop, ch 4, tr in each d c of group with ch-1 between each tr, repeat froal around. After last group of trs is made, ch 4, s c in next ch-4 loop, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch of ch-5 first made.

6th rnd: Ch 6 (to count as tr and ch-2), tr in each tr with ch-2 between trs, but omitting ch-2 between groups (that is between last tr of one group and 1st tr of next group). After last tr, join with sl st in 4th ch of ch-6 first made and sl st to 1st tr.

7th rnd: * Ch 5, s c under next ch-2 sp, repeat from * around (do not make s cs between 2 trs that come together without ch-2 between), ending with ch 5, s c in 1st loop.

8th rnd: * Ch 3, 5 d c under next loop, ch 3, s c in next loop, ch 5, s c in next loop, repeat from * ending with last s c in ch-3 first made.

9th rnd: * Ch 4, tr in each of next 5 d c with ch I between trs, ch 4, s c in ch-5 loop, repeat from * ending with sl st in 4th st of ch-4 first made.

10th rnd: Same as 6th rnd, ending with sl st in 4th st of ch-6 first made.

11th rnd: Same as 7th rnd, ending with ch 5, sl st in 1st loop.

12th rnd: Same as 8th rnd.

13th rnd: Same as 9th rnd. After last group of trs is made, ch 4, sl st in 4th st of ch-4 first made.

14th rnd: Same as 6th rnd.

15th rnd: Ch 5, s c under next ch-2 sp, ch 5, skip next 2 tr, s c under next ch-2 sp, ch 5, s c under next ch-2 sp, * ch 5, skip next 2-tr (that are together), s c under next ch-2 sp, ch 5, skip next 2 tr, s c under

next ch-2 sp, ch 5, s c under next ch-2 sp, repeat from * ending with ch 5, s c in sl st.

16th rnd: Ch 5, s c under next ch-5 loop, then repeat from * of 8th rnd. After last group of d cs are made, ch 3, s c under next ch-5 loop, ch 6, skip next loop, s c under next loop.

17th rnd: Same as 9th rnd. After last group of trs is made, ch 4, s c under cb-6 loop.

18th rnd: Ch 4, tr in each tr with ch-2 between trs, but omitting ch-2 between groups (as in 6th rnd). After last tr, join with sl st in 4th st of ch-4 first made.

19th rnd: Same as 15th rnd, ending with ch-5, s c under 1st ch-5 loop.

20th rnd: Same as 8th rnd. After last group of d c is made, ch 3, s c under next loop, ch 5, s c under next loop.

21st rnd: Ch 4, tr in each of next 5 d c with ch-1 between trs, then repeat from * of 5th rnd. After last group of tr is made, ch 4, s c under next loop.

22nd rnd: Same as 6th rnd, but end with s c in 6th st of ch-6.

23rd rnd: Ch 4, and make 2 tr under each ch-2 sp and 1 tr in each tr. Join with sl st. Do not break off.

Brim. 1st rnd: * Ch 6, skip 2 tr, s c in next tr, repeat frorn * around.

2nd rnd: Ch 5, s c under next loop, then repeat from * of 8th rnd of crown, around.

3rd rnd: Same as 9th rnd of crown.

4th rnd: Same as 6th rnd of crown. After last tr, join with sl st in 6th st of ch-6 first made.

5th rnd: Same as 7th rnd of crown.

6th to 12th rnds incl: Repeat from 8th to 14th rnds of crown incl.

13th rnd: S c in each tr and 2 s c (and sometimes 3 s c to keep work flat) in each sp.

14th and 15th rnds: S c in each s c. With thread double work a rnd of s c holding along wire and working over it so that it is completely covered. Fasten wire neatly. Break off. Sew ribbon band inside of crown adjusting head size. Starch hat or use white shellac and block. Trim hat as in illustration.

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Dahlia Vintage Crochet Bedspread Pattern

This vintage crochet pattern is another from my grandmother’s collection of antique crochet patterns. I remember that she made this one and how pretty it was in creamy ivory cotton on the bed I used to sleep in when I visited her. It always felt like it was a very special bedroom because of this fancy bedspread.

Dahlia crochet bedspread

MATERIALS: Solarized Crochet Cotton, 38 cones (800 yds) Ecru or White. Crochet hook size 8.

Ch 10, join.

RND 1: 18 tr in circle.

RND 2: 24 sc, using back of st only.

RND 3: 28 sc, using back of st only.

RND 4: 36 sc, using back of st only.

RND 5: 48 sc, using back of st only.

RND 6: 54 sc, using back of st only.

RND 7: * ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, and repeat from * around.

RND 8: Sc in each ch st and 3 sc over each dc.

RND 9 to 18 incl: Like rnd 8 always having 3 sc in the middle one of the 3 sc of preceding rnd. When 18th rnd is finished, the dahlia will have 18 leaves and each leaf will have 28 sc. Fold leaf so that the first 6 sts will lie over the last 6 sts of the previous leaf.

RND 19: * Work 6 sc of the 12 sc as they lie together. Leave 16 sc loose and in back of them ch 4 and repeat from * around, join.

RND 20 and 21: Sc in each st.

RND 22: 2 dc with ch 3 between, * ch 1, 13 dc with ch 1 between, skipping 1 sc each time. This covers 3 leaves. Ch 3, dc in same space as last, and repeat from * around, join.

RND 23: 2 dc with ch 3 between in the ch 3 of previous rnd. Ch 1, dc over dc, ch 1 over ch 1 all around. Each rnd has 2 dc, ch 3 between over each corner of the dahlia, thus widening the medallion.

RND 24: Dc in each st all around with 2 dc and ch 3 at each corner.

RND 25: After the 2 dc with ch 3 between, * 5 dc, 1 popcorn st (7 dc in one st. Remove hook and pass hook through the st of the first dc and st of the last dc and draw together. Ch 1 to hold it solid), and repeat from * 3 times forming 4 popcorns in section, widen as usual and repeat on the 6 sides.

RNDS 26 and 27: Solid dc (be sure to widen at corners).

RND 28: * Dc, ch 1, and repeat from * all around widening as usual. Must be 20 holes. The hexagon blocks may be sewed or crocheted together.

EDGING: * Ch 5, turn, 3 dc in 3rd st, 1 ch, 3 dc in same st, ch 5 to turn, and repeat from * for length desired. Sew on spread when edge is completed.

FRINGE: Using cardboard 10 inches wide, wrap 12 times, double knot fringe taking 6 strands in each for second knot.

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Vintage Crochet Work Bag

My grandmother had a very extensive collection of antique and vintage crochet patterns. I am in the process of going through them all and adding them to the blog so you all can enjoy these wonderful old patterns. This is a very cute little crochet bag pattern that makes a perfect gift bag or you could add a fabric liner and use for a purse.

vintage crochet bag

CHAIN 12, join in ring.

lst row. Ch 4, 23 d in ring, join with sl st.

2d row. Ch 11, skip 1 d, 1 t (thread over hook twice), draw thread through the first d of ring, thread over hook, draw through 2 loops, 1 thread over hook once, skip one d on ring, put hook through the next st, thread over hook, draw through loop, thread over hook, draw through 2 loops, thread over hook, draw through 2 loops, thread over hook, draw through 2 loops, thread over hook, draw through 2 loops, ch 2, thread over hook, put hook through the middle st of the t, thread over hook, draw through, thread over hook, draw through 2 loops, thread over hook, draw through the last 2 loops, ch 4, thread over hook twice, put hook through the next st and draw loop through, repeat from *. This is called a crossed treble crochet. Make 8 c t around ring after last c t, make ch of 6, 1 d in next d on ring, sl st into 2d st of lst 11 ch; turn, sl st back over 2 st of last 6 ch, ch 2; turn, sl st into 4 st of lst 11 ch.

3d row. Ch 1, * 8 s over ch of 4, 4 s in the c t, repeat from *.

Work 4 more rows of s around.

8th row. Ch 3, 1 d in lst s, ch 1, 1 d in next s, ch 1, 1 d in next s, repeat around.

9th row. Ch 11, * skip 2 d, 1 c t, leaving 2 d between c t, ch 4, repeat from *.

10th row. 4 s over ch of 4, 4 s in c t, repeat around.

Make 4 rows more of s.

l5th row. Ch 7, * skip 1 s, 2 t in next s, ch 2, repeat from *.

16th row. Ch 3, 2 d over ch of previous row, ch 3, * skip 4 t, 1 s over ch of 2, ch 3, skip 4 t, 3 d over ch of 2, ch 4, 3 d in same place, ch 3, repeat from *, join row with sl st. Ch 2, draw loop through center of last ch so as to begin next row from center of loop.

17th row. Ch 3, 2 d over same loop, ch 3, * 3 d in ch of 4 between the 6 d, ch 4, 3 d in same place, ch 3, repeat from * join row.

18th row. Ch 3, 2 d over 1st loop, ch 3, 1 s over ch of 3, ch 3, 3 d over ch of 4, ch 4, 3 d in same place, repeat same.

Repeat next row from l7th row.

Make 22 rows in all like l7th and 18th rows.

Next row for scallop, * 8 d in ch of 4 with 1 ch between, 1 d in 1 s, repeat from *.

Last row. * 1 p, 1 d in 1 ch, 1 p, 1 d in 1 ch, repeat from *.

vintage crochet bag bottom

Bottom of the bag

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Vintage Knitted Mesh Stockings Pattern

vintage knit stockings patternKnitted stockings patterns are hard to come by. This lovely knit stockings pattern is from 1942. You can use the basics of this pattern to create your own versions or knit them up as is because they are really lovely just the way they are.

Material: (Size 9 ½.)

1 pr. # 1 needles–14-inch.

1 pr. # 3 needles-14-inch.

1 set # 1 double-pointed needles 7-inch.

3 ½-oz. balls 2-fold stocking yarn.

Note: I did some poking around and discovered that it is a fingering weight and 2 fold is using 2 strands at time. Can’t wait to try this pattern. Thanks DeeDee R.

Gauge: 8 sts. to 1 inch. 2 rows to 1 inch.

The stockings are regulation medium length. The length before wearing (i.e., after knitting is completed) is approximately 17 ½ inches from top of stocking to top of heel. The length when on the leg is approximately 24 inches.

Pattern. Multiple of 3 sts. plus 2.

Row 1: K 1,* y.o., slip 1, K2tog., repeat from * across Row, ending K 1.

Repeat Row 1 for pattern.

With a double strand of yarn and #1 needles, cast on 88 sts. Work even in K l, P 1 ribbing for 2 ½ inches. Next Row, increase 1 st. (89 sts.). Break one strand of yarn, change to #3 needles and work even in pattern for 10 inches.

** Next Row (Row A) -K 2tog., K 2 tog., repeat between * ‘s of pattern across Row, ending K 1 (decreasing 2 sts.).

Next Row–K 2 tog., K 2 tog., repeat between * ‘s of pattern across Row, ending y.o., slip l, K 1 (decreasing , st.).

Next Row–K l, K 2 tog., repeat between *’s of pattern across Row, ending y.o., slip 1, K 1. Work 1 more Row in same manner.

Next Row–K 3 tog., repeat between *’s of pattern across Row, ending y.o., slip l, K 1 (decreasing 1 st.).

Next Row–Decrease at beginning in same manner, ending K 1 (decreasing 1 st.).

Next Row–K 1, repeat between *’s of pattern across Row, ending K 1.

Repeat from ** 7 times more.

Repeat Row A once more (47 sts.).

Next Row, work over first 6 sts. (½ heel), work over next 35 sts. (instep) and place these sts. on a st. holder, work over last 6 sts. (½ heel). Join heel sts. and with double strand of yarn and # l needles, work back and forth on these 12 sts. in stockinette st. for 10 rows. Increase 1 st. each side every other Row 6 times (24 sts.).

Work even in stockinette st. for 24 rows. Then decrease as follows (right side of work): Work over 6 sts., place a marker on needle, K 2 tog., K 8, K 2 tog., place a marker on needle, work over remaining 6 sts. P back. Working on all sts., decrease 1 st. after first marker and before 2nd marker every other Row until there are 8 sts. between markers. Fold heel at center back and weave first 10 sts. to last 10 sts.

With double-point needles and a double strand of yarn, pick up 50 sts, around heel and work back and forth in stockinette st. for 4 inches. In crease 1 st. each side every other Row 7 times (54 sts.).

Place these sts. on a st. holder.

Slip sts. of instep from st. holder and with single strand of yarn and #3 needles, work even in pattern for 1 inch.

Decrease 1 st. each side every 5th Row 7 times (21 sts.). Work even until instep is as long as sole.

Next Row, increase as follows: K 2, increase 1 st., * K 3, increase 1 st., repeat from * 3 times more, K 2 (96 sts.). Join with 54 sole sts. on double point needles.

With double strand of yarn work around on all sts., dividing sts. as follows: 40 center sts. of sole on first needle; 7 increased sts. and first   13 instep sts. on 2nd needle; remaining 13 instep sts. and 7 increased sts. on 3rd needle.

Now decrease as follows: On first needle, K l, slip l, K l, p.s.s.o., K to last 3 sts. K 2 tog., K l; on 2nd needle. K l, slip l, K l, p.s.s.o., K across needle; on 3rd needle, K to last 3 sts., K 2 a tog., K 1.

Continue to decrease in this manner at the beginning and end of the first needle, at the beginning of the 2nd needle, and at tile end of the 3rd needle, every other Row 14 times more. Weave remaining sts. tog. Sew seams.

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Vintage Crochet Baby Pattern – Alice Fowler #1211

Alice Fowler patterns were very popular in the 1940s-1960s. They were advertised in the back of many craft magazines and were only sold by mail order. This beautiful pattern is so cute made up. This was fun fur before fun fur yarn was invented. My grandmother collected her patterns and I am slowly getting them added to my vintage collection online.

I am missing a few of them and would very much like to purchase them. If you have any of the patterns I am missing please contact me. I would be happy to purchase them from you or if you would be willing to send me a copy I would greatly appreciate it.

vintage baby crochet pattern

Original Design by Alice Fowler, 10 1/2 East Pikes Peak, Colorado Springs, Colorado

Materials:  Bear Brand Babyfair or Pompadour—7 one-ounce balls.  Bone Crochet Hook No. 1.

Gauge:  Chain 10 = 1 inch

Pattern: Alternate rows of dc and double loop st (dlp) made as follows from back of work: With second finger, hold yarn down behind work, insert hook in next dc, draw up lp, yo, through lp on hook, drop lp from finger, draw yarn down again with 2nd finger, insert hook in same dc as before; draw up lp, yo through 1st lp on hook, yo, through 3 lps on hook. This stitch should be made fairly tight. Ch 3, turn, at end of each lp st row. Ch 1, turn, at end of each dc row.

Sacque.

Begin at lower edge of back.

Row 1. Ch 72, dc in 4th st from hook and in each st across (70 dc).

Row 2. Dlp in each st.

Row 3. Dec 1 st at each end of row as follows: Yo, insert hook in 2nd dc, draw up lp, insert hook in next dc, draw up lp, yo, through 3, yo, through 2. Repeat in 2nd and 3rd sts from opp end, making regular dc in last st.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 nine times (50 dc).

Make Row 2 once more.

Row 23. Sl st across 7 sts, dc in 36, ch 1, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 twice, work without dec 2 more times, end with Row 2 (32 dc). Fasten off.

Front: Row 1. Ch 35. Work in pattern (33 dc) as for back, dec at underarm side only until 24 dc. Sl st over 4, repeat pattern rows twice without dec, drop off 9 st at front for neck and work pattern 2 more times, ending with dlp row. Make opp front to match.

Sleeve: Ch 42 (40 dc on ch). Work even in pattern 8 times. Dec succeeding dc rows to 30, 26, 22, 18, and 14, end with dlp row. Fasten off.

Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves in place, then sew sleeve and underarm seam last.

Sc closely around entire sacque, and edge with Bucilla Crochelle, ch 3, sl st in next, etc., around. Insert ribbon for ties.

Bonnet:

Ch 65, very loosely. Work in pattern without dec until there are 12 dc rows. Fold ends tog and sew or crochet starting ch, allowing it to stretch to make peak at top. Sc closely around neckline (about 53 sc) to draw to shape. Fasten off. Edge as for sacque.

Bootee:

Begin with sole: Ch 20.

Row 1. 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 15, 5 dc in next, 1 dc in each of next 15 down opp side of ch, 2 dc in last, join to top of 3 ch.

Row 2. Ch 3, 2 dc in each of next 3, 1 dc in each of next 13, 2 dc in each of next 7, 1 dc in each of next 13, 2 dc in each of next 3, 1 dc in same st as 3 ch. Join.

Row 3. Ch 3, (1 dc in next, 2 dc in next) 3 times, 1 dc in each of next 14, (2 dc in next, 1 dc in next) 7 times, 1 dc in each of next 13, (2 dc in next, 1 dc in next) 3 times, 1 dc in same st as 3 ch. Join.

Row 4. Ch 3, 1 dc around the spoke of each dc, inserting hook from back, right to left, join (68 dc, counting 3 ch).

Rows 5 and 6. Ch 3, dc in each dc. Join

Row 7. Ch 3, yo, draw up lp in 1st dc, insert hook in next dc and draw up lp, yo, through 3, yo, through 2 (dec dc made), dc in each dc until last 2, make dec dc. Join and fasten off. This is center back (66 dc).

Instep. Row 1. Beginning with first st to left of ch 3 in center back, count on left side of shoe to 27th st. Join yarn in this st, and with toe of shoe toward you, ch 3, dc in each of 12, ch 3, turn. Work dc even for 6 rows, sc across top of instep, retaining last lp on hook. Fasten instep in shoe as follows: Catch remaining lp on hook into 15th st from center back on right side of shoe (do not count 3 ch) and with instep piece toward you, sc it st for st to right side of shoe, 2 sc at corner, sc across toe, inserting hook from right to left under each of the original 13 sts of instep, 2 sc at corner, sc instep and shoe tog along left side, ending in 15th st from center back (do not count 3 ch).

Beading: With toe of shoe facing you, ch 4, * sk 1, dc in next, ch 1 *, repeat across instep, ending in same 15th st where you began joining instep to shoe, ch 1, sk 1, dec dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, repeat * to * (above) 11 times, sk 1, dec dc in next 2, ch 1, join to 3rd st of 4 ch (21 dc, counting 4 ch).

Top: Row 1. Ch 3, dc in each st around (42 dc).

Row 2. Dc even.

Add pattern rows 3 times, joining at end of each row. Fasten off. Edge.

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Vintage Lacy Crochet Layette

There is just something about vintage baby sweaters that is very special. This pretty little layette will be a pleasure to make and an appreciated gift.

vintage baby pattern

INFANT SIZE GAUGE: 2 shells make 1 inch, 4 rows make 1 inch. 12 sc make 1 inch; 12 rows make 1 inch. What You Need for Infant Size: ROYAL PERLE No. 8. 9 balls for entire set (6 balls for Sacque, 2 balls each for Cap and Bootees if made separately). Steel Crochet Hook No. 6. 5 yards ribbon, 1\4 inch wide (2 yards for Sacque, 2 yards for Cap and I yard for Bootees). 2 rosettes.

Starting at neck edge, ch 95 (to measure 9 1/2 inches). lst row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch, * 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 4 ch. Repeat from * 14 more times; 2 sc in next sc, sc in each of last 9 ch.

2nd row: Dc in next sc, * ch 2, sk 1 sc, dc in next 2 sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, dc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * across, ending with dc in last 2 sc (31 sps). Ch 1, turn.

3rd row: 2 sc in lst dc, sc in next dc, * 2 dc in sp, sc in next 2 dc. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in last dc, 2 sc in top st of turning ch (128 sc). Ch 2, turn.

4th row: * Sk 3 sc, holding back the last loop of each dc on hook make 2 dc in back loop of next sc, thread over and draw through all loops on hook (cluster made), ch 3 and, working behind cluster, make dc in back loop of the center skipped sc (1 cluster pattern made), ch 2. Repeat from * across (32 cluster patterns). Ch 3, turn.

5th row: (Right side of work) 2 dc in ch-3 sp (half a shell made), * sc in next ch-2 sp, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp (shell made). Repeat from * across, ending with 3 dc in last ch-3 sp (half shell made). There are 30 whole shells with a half shell on each end. Ch 1, turn.

6th row: Sc in lst dc, * ch 5, sc in center dc of next shell. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in top st of turning ch (31 ch 5 sps). Ch 1, turn.

7th row: Sc in lst sc, (7 sc in next sp, sc in next sc) 12 times; (6 sc in next sp, sc in next sc) 7 times; (7 sc in next sp, sc in. next sc) 12 times (242 sc). Ch 3, turn.

8th row: Dc in lst sc, * ch 2, sk 2 sc, dc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * across (60 sps). Ch 1, turn.

9th row: Sc in each dc and 2 sc in each sp across, make 2 sc in top st of turning ch (243 sc). Ch 2, turn.

l0th row: Same as 4th row, only skipping 2 (instead of 3) sc between clusters and making the dc in the first of the skipped sts (81 cluster patterns on row). Ch 3, turn.

11th row: Same as 5th row, making ch 2 (instead of ch-1) to turn (79 shells and 2 half shells on row).

12th row: Cluster in back loop of 2nd dc, ch 3 and, working behind cluster, make dc in back loop of 1st dc, * ch 2, cluster in back loop of 4th dc of next shell, ch 3 and, working behind cluster, make dc in back loop of 2nd dc of same shell. Repeat from * across (81 cluster patterns on row). Ch 3, turn.

Repeat 11th and 12th rows alternately 5 more times; then repeat 11th row once more.

24th row: Work 11 cluster patterns with ch 2 between, ch 2, sk 17 shells, make a cluster in back loop of 4th dc of next shell, ch 3, dc in back loop of 2nd dc on lst shell skipped (a joined cluster pattern). The 16 free shells are to be used for Sleeve. Work cluster patterns with ch 2 between over next 23 shells, sk 17 shells, complete a joined cluster pattern as before over next shell and lst shell skipped (free shells are

to be used for other Sleeve), work in pattern over remaining 11 shells (47 cluster patterns). Ch 3, turn.

25th row: Work shells across, increasing 2 shells at each underarm-to increase 2 shells at underarm, make 1 shell in the ch-2 sp preceding the cluster pattern at underarm, 1 shell in the ch-3 sp of cluster and 1 shell in sp following same cluster pattern (49 shells and 2 half shells on row). Ch 2, turn.

26th row: Sk first half shell, cluster in back loop of 4th dc of next shell, ch 3, dc back in lst dc of lst half shell (1 cluster pattern decreased), ch 2 and make cluster patterns with ch 2 between across to within last complete shell, ch 2, cluster in back loop of last dc of last half shell, ch 3 dc back in back loop of 2nd dc of last complete shell (another cluster pattern decreased). Ch 3, turn.

27th row: Work shell pattern across.

28th row: Repeat 26th row.

Repeat 25th to 28th rows inclusive 2 more times; then repeat 25th and 26th rows once more (Center Back measures 8 inches). Fasten off.

With right side facing, attach thread to lst sc at left neck edge, shell under next dc, sc in next. sc, shell in ch-3 sp of next cluster pattern, sc in next sc, shell under next dc, sc in next sc, shell in ch-3 sp of next cluster pattern, sc at base of next cluster pattern, shell in ch-3 of cluster pattern and continue thus along entire outer edge of Sacque to opposite side of neck edge, working shells along bottom of Sacque in established pattern. Fasten off.

SLEEVES . lst row: With wrong side facing, attach thread to shell where first half of joined cluster pattern was made at underarm, ch 2, cluster in back loop of 4th dc of shell where other half of joined cluster pattern was made, ch 3, dc back in back loop of 2nd dc of shell where thread was attached, ch 2 and work cluster pattern with ch-2 between over shells of Sleeve, ending with cluster pattern over last free shell, ch 2, sl st in tip of lst cluster made. Turn.

2nd row: * Sc in ch-2 sp, shell in next ch-3 sp. Repeat from * around, ending with shell in last ch-3 sp, sl st in lst sc made. Turn.

3rd row: * Ch 2, cluster in back loop of 4th dc of next shell ch 3, dc back in back loop of 2nd dc of same shell. Repeat from * around, ending rnd as before. Turn.

Work thus in pattern until 6 rnds in all have been completed. Fasten off.

Run ribbon in and out of both rows of dc sps at neck edge. Tie ends in bow at front and trim. Press through damp cloth.

CAP BACK PIECE . Starting at base, ch 15 (to measure 1 1/4 inches). lst row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (14 sc). Ch 1, turn.

2nd row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat the 2nd row, increasing 1 sc at both ends of the next row and every 3rd row thereafter, until there arc 20 sc on row-to increase, make 2 sc in 1 sc. Now work sc in each sc across until piece measures 2 inches in all. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: Sk lst sc (1 sc decreased), sc in each sc. Ch 1, turn. Repeat last row until 12 sc remain. Fasten off.

Attach thread to lst sc on lst row and work across curved edge as follows: lst row: Make 68 sc along edge, making last sc in last sc of lst row of Back Piece. Ch 3, turn.

2nd row: Dc in next sc, (ch 2, sk 2 sc, dc in next 2 sc) 3 times; (ch 2, sk 1 sc, dc in next 2 sc) 14 times; (ch 2, sk 2 sc, dc in next 2 sc) 3 times (20 sps). Ch 1, turn.

3rd row: Sc in each dc and 2 sc in each sp across, do not make sc in top st of turning ch (81 sc). Ch 2, turn.

4th row: Make 27 cluster patterns across, working as for 10th row of Sacque.

5th row: Make 25 shells with a half shell on each end, working as for 11th row of Sacque, Ch 1, turn.

6th row: Sc in lst dc, * ch 4, sc in 3rd dc of next shell. Repeat from * across (26 sps). Ch 1, turn.

7th row: Sc in each sc and 4 sc in each sp across, ending with 3 sc in last sp, sc in last sc (130 sc). Ch 3, turn.

8th row: Dc in next sc, * ch 2, sk 2 sc, dc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * across (32 sps). Ch 1, turn.

9th row: Sk lst dc, sc in next dc, (2 dc in next sp, sc in next 2 dc) 8 times; (3 sc in next sp, sc in next 2 dc) 16 times; (2 dc in next sp, sc in next 2 dc) 8 times (145 sc). Ch 2, turn.

10th row: * Sk 4 sc, cluster in back loop of next sc, ch 3, dc in back loop of 2nd skipped sc, ch 2. Repeat from * across 29 cluster patterns. Ch 3, turn. Work straight in pattern as for Sacque until 6 rows of cluster patterns and 6 rows of shells are made.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 cluster pattern (same as on Sacque) at both ends of each cluster pattern row until 19 cluster patterns remain, ending with a cluster row. Fasten off.

Now work a row of shells all along outer edge of Cap, working over decreased edge as for Sacque. Fasten off.

Run ribbon in and out of both rows of dc sps at back of Cap. Tack ends of ribbon on wrong side. Cut remainder of ribbon in half and sew to Cap for ties. Sew on rosettes.

BOOTEES

TOE PIECE . Ch 15 (to measure 1 1\4 inches). lst row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (14 sc). Ch 1, turn.

2nd row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat the 2nd row until piece measures 1 1\4 inches. Ch 55 for ankle, sl st in first st at beginning of last row. Fasten off. Now work in rnds as follows.

1st rnd: Attach thread to center st of ch-55 (this is center back), sc in same place where thread was attached, sc in 27 ch, then work sc along 3 sides of Toe Piece, sc in each remaining ch, sl st in lst sc. Ch 1, turn. Work sc in each st around until piece measures 1 1\4 inches. join. Ch 1, turn.

Next rnd: Work sc in each sc around, decreasing 3 sc evenly across toe and 3 sc evenly across heel-to decrease, work off 2 sc as 1 sc. Join. Repeat last rnd 5 more times. Fasten off.

Sew edges together. Count up 8 rnds from seam just made, attach th-read in st at center back and, with seam facing, work sc through top of each dc on this rnd, thus forming a ridge around sole. Fasten off.

Now work top as follows: lst rnd: Attach thread to center st at upper edge of Toe Piece, ch 1, sc in same place where thread was attached, work 67 more sc around (68 sc). join. Ch 3, turn.

2nd rnd: Dc in next st, * ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * around (17 sps). join. Ch 1, turn.

3rd rnd: Sc in same place as sl st, sc in each dc and 2 sc in each sp around (68 sc). join. Ch 2, turn.

Now work in rows as follows:

lst row: Same as 4th row of Sacque (17 cluster patterns). Do not join. Ch 3, turn.

2nd row: Same as 5th row of Sacque. Now decrease 1 cluster pattern at both ends of each of the next 3 cluster pattern rows (4 cluster rows in all made). Fasten off. Attach thread to joining of 3rd rnd (over beading) and work shells along outer edge of top, working over decreased edge as for Sacque. Fasten off.

Run an 18-inch length of ribbon through beading at ankle.

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5 Cute Amigurumi Doll Patterns

These 5 cute little amigurmi doll patterns are so adorable. If you are like me and love crocheting dolls, you will want to try these out. I especially love the little nurse doll.

Magdalena Amigurumi Doll Pattern

amigurumi pattern magdelena

http://www.saturdayeveningpost.com/wp-content/uploads/satevepost/Magdalena-doll-for-Saturday-Evening-Post.pdf

Little Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

amigurumi fairy pattern

http://funandfang.blogspot.com/2010/07/free-pattern-little-fairy.html

Amigurumi Doll Pattern

amigurumi doll pattern

http://stitch.hellooperator.net/free-patterns/amigurumi-doll/

Pink Little Lady Amigurumi Pattern

amigurumi doll pattern

http://kandjdolls.blogspot.com/2010/02/pink-little-lady.html

Amigurumi Nurse Doll Pattern

amigurumi nurse pattern

http://www.ravelry.com/dls/sayjai-thawornsupacharoen-designs/35948?filename=Little_Nurse.pdf

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