12mm-US 17

5 Free Sleeveless Tops to Knit for Summer

Once summer arrives we often forget about knitting but these pretty tops are just begging to be added to your summer wardrobe.

sleeveless summer top patternThis Lavender Sleeveless Wrap Top pattern is a perfect piece to add to your summer must-haves. It easily goes from day to night and dress down to dress up. It is worked in reverse stocking stitch and trimmed in seed stitch. Because it is worked in size 5mm (US 8) needles it is also a nice quick take along project for vacation. Download the free summer knit pattern here. (pdf)

knit tank top pattern

Knit Tank Top Pattern

This knit tank top will soon be your favorite go-to summer top. It is very versatile looking just as pretty with a soft flowing skirt for a night out as it does with capri or shorts on the beach. Knit in cool summer cotton or linen yarn and it will help you stay cool in the hot weather. Find the free knit tank top pattern here.

knit halter top patternSummer Knit Halter Top Pattern

Super sexy and figure flattering, this stretch knit halter top deserves to be included in your summer knits. Worked up in a cotton/elastic yarn, it hugs your curves. Because of the design and the vertical textured pattern it has a very slimming effect. What more could a girl ask for? Get the free summer halter top pattern here.

knit tank top patternRacer-Back Tank Top Pattern

This is another go-to pattern for a comfy and sporty little summer knit tank top. Wear it on its own or over a tee. The pattern calls for a fun ribbon yarn and is knit on 6mm (US10) needles so you know you can whip this one up in a hurry. Make it this weekend! Get the free knit tank top pattern here.

knit tank top patternKnit Sleeveless Summer Top Pattern

I love this sleeveless top pattern. It is fun and funky while at the same time has a classic look about it. You can wear it on its own or wear the coordinating shrug layered over the top on cool evenings.  Get the free sleeveless top summer knit pattern here.

12mm-US 17

Fancy Knit Rib – 5 Cuff and Collar Stitches

Edges and finishing details can make a plain garment come to life. I am always looking for ways to dress up my designs and projects so I thought that maybe you would like to have a list of a few really nice rib stitches that are a little different than your basic k1, p1 or 2×2 ribbing. If you have a favorite fancy collar or cuff stitch please do share in the comments!

Fancy Slip Stitch Rib

Fancy Slip Stitch Rib (multiples of 5)

Row 1:[RS] p2, k1, sl 1, k1

Row 2: p3, k2

Rick Rack Rib Stitch

Rick Rack Rib Stitch (multiples of 3)

Row 1: [RS] Take right-hand needle behind left-hand needle. Skip the first stitch and knit into the back loop of the second stitch. Then knit skipped stitch through the front loop. The slip both stitches from the needle together; p1

Row 2: With yarn in front, skip the first stitch and purl the second stitch. The purl the skipped stitch. The slip both stitches from needle together; k1

Image compliments of Chrisknits

Knit baby cable rib stitch

Baby Cables Rib (multiples of 4)

Row 1: [WS] p2, k2

Row 2: k2, p2

Row 3: p2, k2

Row 4: k2 together, leaving both stitches on needle; then insert right-hand needle between the 2 stitches just knitted together, and knit the first st again; then slip both stitches from needle together, p2

Cable Rib Stitch

Cable Rib Stitch (multiples of 3)

Row 1: [RS] p1, k2,

Rows 2, 3, 4 & 5: knit all knit stitches and purl all purl stitches

Row 6: p1, skip next stitch, k into second st leaving on needle, k into skipped sts, slip both sts off needle together.

Knit lace rib stitch

Lace Rib Stitch (multiple of 6 sts)

Rows 1 and 3 (WS) *P2, k1; rep from *, end p2.

Row 2 *K2, p1, yo, ssk, p1; rep from *, end k2.

Row 4 *K2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from *, end k2.

12mm-US 17

Knit 2 Socks at Once – Vintage Knitting Techniques

Here is a challenge for the experienced sock knitters out there. This tip comes from an article posted in the Needlecraft magazine in 1918. During war efforts, women knitted socks fast and furious for the troops. Women would often brag about being able to turn a heel in the dark of a movie theater or being able to knit two socks at one time.

Here is Mrs. Reeders explanation of how to knit two socks at one time on one set of needles.

How To Knit Two Socks at Once

Wind your yarn in two balls; use one
set of needles, but cast on twice the
number of stitches that would be
required for one sock, using first the
yarn from one ball, then from the other.
Have 40 stitches on each of two needles,
and 48 on the third. Hold one thread
over the right forefinger in the usual
American way, the other on the left
forefinger. The 1st thread (over right
forefinger) is used to purl the 1st or
upper stitch, and the 2d thread (over
left forefinger) to knit the 2d or lower
stitch, unless otherwise directed. By
bearing this in mind the work is greatly
simplified; but one must be careful not
to get “mixed up” in alternating the
The ribbed top of the stocking is about
a finger-length, or four inches, and if
found too difficult to do with two
threads the ribbing may be done sep-
arately; then join the socks by putting
one inside the other and knitting the
stitches alternately, first from one,
then from the other, until you have
transferred them to one set of needles.
For the ribbing: (Purl 1st stitch, knit
2d) twice, (knit 1st stitch, purl 2d)
twice; repeat. You will see that you thus
get the double rib( of knit 2. purl 2) on
each sock, working off 8 stitches for one
repeat instead of 4 stitches, as would be
the case were you knitting the socks
Having finished the ribbing, purl 1st
stitch and knit 2d until the leg of sock
measures eleven inches. Remember to
alternate the threads, always, beginning
a needle with the 1st thread if the pre-
ceding needle ended with the 2d.
For the heel: take 66 stitches on one
needle, and knit and purl back and
forth on these for about two and one-
half inches, slipping the first 2 stitches
of each row. Holding inner side of
socks toward you, slip 2 stitches (1
stitch of each sock), knit and purl 36
stitches, narrow with each thread (thus:
Purl 2 together, letting the stitch be-
tween these 2, or the 2d stitch, slip
off, pick up this stitch and knit 2 to-
gether), then purl 1st and knit 2d
stitch, turn; slip 2, purl and knit 14,
narrow, purl 1 and knit 1, slip 2,
purl and knit 16, narrow, purl and knit
1, turn; slip 2, knit 18, narrow, knit 2
(remembering always that the 1st stitch,
or that for which the right-hand thread
is used, is purled, and the 2d or left is
knitted, alternately), turn; slip 2, knit
20, narrow, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 22,
narrow, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 24, nar-
row, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 26, nar-
row, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 28, nar-
row, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 30, nar-
row, knit 2, turn; slip 2, knit 30, narrow,
turn, and continue until all the stitches
are narrowed off. Now pick up 12
stitches on side of each heel, alter-
nately purling and knitting, until there
are 24 stitches on 1st needle, purl and
knit across 2d needle, pick up the
stitches on other side of each heel, 24 in

Knitting 2 socks at once

all, for 3d needle, and divide the 34
stitches on upper part of heel, putting 16
stitches on 1st needle and 18 stitches
on 3d; also transfer 8 stitches from 2d
needle to 1st, and 8 stitches from 2d
needle to 3d. There should now be 48
stitches on 1st needle, 46 on 2d needle
and 50 stitches on 3d needle. Knit
once around plain (remembering the
alternate purling and knitting), knit to
within 10 stitches of end of 1st needle,
narrow, knit across 2d needle and 6
stitches on 3d, narrow, and finish the
round plain. Repeat last 2 rounds, nar-
rowing in the same place every other
round until there remain 120 stitches in
all; divide these equally, 40 on each
needle, and knit until the foot is nine
inches in length.
To shape the toe: Knit 10, (purl and knit),
narrow; repeat; knit 5 rounds plain; knit
8, narrow, repeat; knit 4 rounds; knit 6,
narrow, repeat knit 3 rounds; knit 4,
narrow, repeat; knit 2 rounds; knit 2,
narrow, repeat; knit 1 round; knit 1,
narrow; repeat; knit 1 round. Repeat last
2 rounds until 24 stitches remain, break
the yarn, leaving eight or ten inches of
each thread, pull out the needles carefully,
separate the socks, and finish off as fol-
lows: thread a small darner or blunt-pointed
worsted needle with the yarn; have the 12
stitches evenly divided, 6 stitches on each
of 2 needles, laid together, * put needle
through 1st stitch on 1st needle as if to
knit it, draw through and take off, insert
needle in next stitch on same needle as if
to purl, draw through but do not take off;
insert needle as if to purl in 1st stitch
of opposite knitting-needle, draw through
and take off, insert needle in next stitch
of same needle as if to knit, draw through
but do not take off; repeat until all the
stitches are off, always keeping the
yarn between the 2 needles as you
work. Finish off by darning the end

12mm-US 17

Vintage Knitted Mesh Stockings Pattern

vintage knit stockings patternKnitted stockings patterns are hard to come by. This lovely knit stockings pattern is from 1942. You can use the basics of this pattern to create your own versions or knit them up as is because they are really lovely just the way they are.

Material: (Size 9 ½.)

1 pr. # 1 needles–14-inch.

1 pr. # 3 needles-14-inch.

1 set # 1 double-pointed needles 7-inch.

3 ½-oz. balls 2-fold stocking yarn.

Note: I did some poking around and discovered that it is a fingering weight and 2 fold is using 2 strands at time. Can’t wait to try this pattern. Thanks DeeDee R.

Gauge: 8 sts. to 1 inch. 2 rows to 1 inch.

The stockings are regulation medium length. The length before wearing (i.e., after knitting is completed) is approximately 17 ½ inches from top of stocking to top of heel. The length when on the leg is approximately 24 inches.

Pattern. Multiple of 3 sts. plus 2.

Row 1: K 1,* y.o., slip 1, K2tog., repeat from * across Row, ending K 1.

Repeat Row 1 for pattern.

With a double strand of yarn and #1 needles, cast on 88 sts. Work even in K l, P 1 ribbing for 2 ½ inches. Next Row, increase 1 st. (89 sts.). Break one strand of yarn, change to #3 needles and work even in pattern for 10 inches.

** Next Row (Row A) -K 2tog., K 2 tog., repeat between * ‘s of pattern across Row, ending K 1 (decreasing 2 sts.).

Next Row–K 2 tog., K 2 tog., repeat between * ‘s of pattern across Row, ending y.o., slip l, K 1 (decreasing , st.).

Next Row–K l, K 2 tog., repeat between *’s of pattern across Row, ending y.o., slip 1, K 1. Work 1 more Row in same manner.

Next Row–K 3 tog., repeat between *’s of pattern across Row, ending y.o., slip l, K 1 (decreasing 1 st.).

Next Row–Decrease at beginning in same manner, ending K 1 (decreasing 1 st.).

Next Row–K 1, repeat between *’s of pattern across Row, ending K 1.

Repeat from ** 7 times more.

Repeat Row A once more (47 sts.).

Next Row, work over first 6 sts. (½ heel), work over next 35 sts. (instep) and place these sts. on a st. holder, work over last 6 sts. (½ heel). Join heel sts. and with double strand of yarn and # l needles, work back and forth on these 12 sts. in stockinette st. for 10 rows. Increase 1 st. each side every other Row 6 times (24 sts.).

Work even in stockinette st. for 24 rows. Then decrease as follows (right side of work): Work over 6 sts., place a marker on needle, K 2 tog., K 8, K 2 tog., place a marker on needle, work over remaining 6 sts. P back. Working on all sts., decrease 1 st. after first marker and before 2nd marker every other Row until there are 8 sts. between markers. Fold heel at center back and weave first 10 sts. to last 10 sts.

With double-point needles and a double strand of yarn, pick up 50 sts, around heel and work back and forth in stockinette st. for 4 inches. In crease 1 st. each side every other Row 7 times (54 sts.).

Place these sts. on a st. holder.

Slip sts. of instep from st. holder and with single strand of yarn and #3 needles, work even in pattern for 1 inch.

Decrease 1 st. each side every 5th Row 7 times (21 sts.). Work even until instep is as long as sole.

Next Row, increase as follows: K 2, increase 1 st., * K 3, increase 1 st., repeat from * 3 times more, K 2 (96 sts.). Join with 54 sole sts. on double point needles.

With double strand of yarn work around on all sts., dividing sts. as follows: 40 center sts. of sole on first needle; 7 increased sts. and first   13 instep sts. on 2nd needle; remaining 13 instep sts. and 7 increased sts. on 3rd needle.

Now decrease as follows: On first needle, K l, slip l, K l, p.s.s.o., K to last 3 sts. K 2 tog., K l; on 2nd needle. K l, slip l, K l, p.s.s.o., K across needle; on 3rd needle, K to last 3 sts., K 2 a tog., K 1.

Continue to decrease in this manner at the beginning and end of the first needle, at the beginning of the 2nd needle, and at tile end of the 3rd needle, every other Row 14 times more. Weave remaining sts. tog. Sew seams.

12mm-US 17

Can’t Find A Knit or Crochet Pattern for….?

Looking for a knit pattern for….

I get a great many emails from people searching for a particular pattern that they cannot find. So I thought I would start this thread as a place for people to ask for or share their patterns.

If you want a knit or crochet  pattern for something specific just leave a comment and either I or one of my readers will help you find it.

Got a cool free knit or crochet pattern to share? Leave a comment with a link to the pattern.

Note: Must be a free pattern. This isn’t a place to advertise. If you do want to advertise any of your patterns for sale, contact me, I just might send it out to my list or feature it in this blog.

12mm-US 17

Waterfall Lace Scarf Pattern

Waterfall lace scarf pattern
Waterfall lace scarf pattern

Knitting lace has become one of my passions lately. Although some lace patterns can be very complicated, this one is pretty easy and a great project for someone who is just starting out learning to knit lace.

The pattern has both written instructions and a chart which makes it very easy for someone to learn how to knit from charts because you have the written version to follow along with as well.

I am using a fine lace weight cotton for my scarf so I have added a few extra repeats of the pattern in mine, but you can make this scarf as narrow or as wide as you like and use whatever yarn you have on hand. Perfect as a stash busting project.


Length after blocking: 70-74 inches

Width after blocking: approx. 6 inches

(Length and width before blocking: 48-52 inches x approx. 4 inches)


300-400 yards of any soft fingering weight wool yarn

US #5/3.75mm or US #6/4.0mm straight or circular needles. (I recommend swatching with two or three

different needle sizes, then blocking your swatch to determine which needle size will produce the most

pleasing fabric with the yarn you are using. Swatching will also help you determine how many repeats of

the stitch pattern to do to get your desired scarf length.)


Gauge is not crucial and will vary depending on yarn used.

You can download the pdf of this free lace scarf pattern here. http://www.mtholyoke.edu/~bsennott/Falling%20Water%20Pattern.pdf

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12mm-US 17

The Marvelous Mobius – Moebius Scarf Pattern

What is a moebius?

Mobius Scarf
Mobius Scarf

Whether you spell it mobius or moebius, this cowl type of scarf is a truly marvelous invention when it comes to keeping you warm. The mobius is one of the most versatile accessories you can make. If you make it cowl sized, you can wear it around your neck or pull it up and it becomes a hood. Make it larger and it can also become a wrap.
Basically, a moebius is a scarf that is sewn in a loop with a twist in the middle. It is the twist that makes it so functional. The twisted scarf fits just perfectly under your chin and adds extra warmth just where it’s needed most.
A mobius is the perfect scarf for children as well. We are always cautioned against the ends of scarves being dangerous in the playground because they could get tangled in climbing equipment and cause strangulation. With a mobius there are no worries because there are no ends to dangle. They are very kid friendly because they just slip over the head like a hat and do not require them to know how to tie a knot. Especially good for your school aged children who need to be independent.
This is a very easy knit pattern that is suitable for beginner and advanced knitters. Done in Thick and Quick yarn, it can be whipped up in an evening making it a great last minute gift idea.

Marvelous Moebius Pattern
Marvelous Moebius Pattern


Lionbrand Thick and Quick 1 Ball

Size 10mm (15US) knitting needles

Tapestry needle

Gauge: not important

Sizes: Child, Ladies, Mens

Cast on 12 (16,20) stitches.

Pattern: *K2, K1 in back of next st, p1. Repeat from * to end.

Repeat pattern row until work measures 18 (20,24) inches or desired length.

Cast off pattern-wise. (follow pattern as you cast off) Leave a long enough tail to sew ends together.


Bring ends together. Give one end a half turn sewing the wrong side of one end  to the right side of the other end. Weave the seam together to make an invisible seam. (see video below)

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12mm-US 17

Easiest Beginner Hat Pattern Ever

The Any Size, Any Yarn, Any Needle Hat

When I started teaching knitting and crochet I wanted to give my students something they could work on besides a scarf. I think 90% of us made a scarf for our first projects but after making one scarf, you don’t always feel confident enough to tackle a more difficult pattern so you get hung up on creating scarf after scarf.

I created the “Any Size, Any Yarn, Any Needle  Hat” instructions for just that purpose but I soon learned that even experienced knitters loved them for their ease of use and because you can make hats in a variety of different styles and stitches that fit perfectly every time.

Instead of being made to size from a pattern, these hats are made to measure. This way you can use any weight of yarn and any size of needle you like. You can even use any stitch pattern you like. The hats will be perfect every time.

Basically, you are just knitting a long rectangle, so no advanced skills are necessary. If you can knit a scarf, you can knit one of these hats. The various styles are created by different ways of sewing them together at the end. One method of knitting can give you 5 different styles of hats. You are the only one who will know just how simple it was to make them.

To start, you will first need to take some measurements:

Measuring Your Head
Measuring Your Head

Measure the circumference of the head and the depth of the crown as shown in this image.

If you do not have the person or child you are knitting for handy, here are some average measurements.

Men: 22″ circumference, 8″ crown

Women: 20″ circumference, 7″ crown

Child: 18″ circumference, 6″ crown

Baby: 16″ circumference, 5″ crown

For the circumference, you will want to subtract at least an inch for your finished measurements to allow for a nice cozy fit. Otherwise your hat may feel too loose. Your finished measurement should give you your head measurement when slightly stretched.

One other feature of this pattern is that you can choose to knit from the brim up or from side to side. Experiment with both and achieve different looks.

Next you will need to choose your yarn and needle size.

Determining the number of stitches you will need will depend on the needle size and yarn weight. As a general rule, you should use the size of needle recommended by the yarn manufacturer for that particular yarn. For example: A medium or worsted weight yarn recommends a 5mm(US8) needle to achieve a gauge of 18s, 24r per 4″x4″ swatch.

This is how you will determine your number of stitches.

  1. Calculate your number of stitches per inch. In this case it is 18 divided by 4 = 4.5.
  2. For this example I will use an adult male. So 22″ minus 1″ for stretch. Now I will multiply the 4.5 stitches x 21″ = 94.5 stitches. I would round this down to 94 for the brim up style. For the side to side style you will multiply the 4.5 sts by the 8″ length which is 36 sts. The side to side method works great with the garter stitch(knit every row) and is a really good way for a beginner to start knitting hats.
  3. If you want a rolled brim or top knot, add 3-4 inches to the crown length.
  4. Once you have determined how many stitches you need, cast on and  start knitting. Knit the desired length and cast off leaving an 18″ tail for finishing. You should have a long rectangle.
  5. Using the invisible seam method, sew the back seam of the hat to form a tube.
  6. Choose the style of hat you want and follow the finishing directions.


The basic toque or beanie is achieved by using a running stitch around the top of the tube and pulling the yarn tight to gather the tube closed at the top. Secure the yarn very well before cutting. Attach a large pompom  or hat topper to the center top.

Envelope Folded Top. This will give a more tailored looking toque or beanie. Mark the center front and match up with the center back seam. Starting at one side, sew the top seam closed. Now fold both ends of the seam to the center and tack them down. This will completely hide the seam and give you a folded envelope look.

Top Knot Hat. This is particularly cute for kids and baby hats. Knit the hat 4 inches longer than the crown length. Gather the tube together 4 inches below the top edge and wrap yarn around and around several times. Secure the yarn well. Fan out the top knot for a very cute finish.

Animal Ears Hat. Another adorable way to finish a baby/child’s hat is to sew the seam flat as in the top knot hat. Gather the ends of the seam into “ears” and wrap yarn around and secure to hold the shape.

Pig Tails Hat. Sew flat top seam. Make 9″ braids of yarn and secure to the ends of the seams

4 Tassel Hat. Tack center front to center back. Tack both sides to the center. This will leave 4 points. Sew the top of the points closed. Attach tassels to the 4 points.

Teddy Bear Hat. Sew flat top seam. Attach large pompoms to the ends of the seams for fuzzy ears.

Can you come up with more ways to finish the hats? Please share your ideas with us.

4 Tassel Hat
4 Tassel Hat
Animal Ear Hat
Animal Ear Hat
Envelope Fold Hat
Envelope Fold Hat
Pig-Tail Hat
Pig-Tail Hat
Top Knot Hat
Top Knot Hat
12mm-US 17

Knit Mitten Scarf Pattern

Mitten Scarf
Mitten Scarf

In my search for some great knitting patterns for making Christmas gifts this year I came across this very unique scarf – mitten combination scarf and I just love it. I am a huge lover of all things unusual so this one really struck my fancy. I may even adapt it to add in a hood on the scarf and have all angles covered. LOL

Skills Needed

Provisional co, knit, purl, m1, circ knitting.


One size, women’s.

Finished measurements

Scarf measures 3″ wide x 90″ long (or desired length).



3 skeins Rowan Polar (100g/109 yards, 60% wool 30% alpaca 10% acrylic (sadly discontinued).

I believe the replacement would be 4-5 skeins Rowan Little Big Wool (60 m/50g, 67% wool, 33% nylon) or any chunky weight yarn, approximately 300 yards (for a 90″ long scarf, approximately 250 yards for 60″ scarf).


US #11 for the scarf, #9 (either dpn’s or two circular) for the mittens (this makes the fabric denser and warmer for the mittens).


Over 1×1 rib and #11 needles, 17 sts in 3″ unstretched.

Click here to download the free knitting pattern.(pdf)

12mm-US 17

Free Scarf Patterns -hooded scarf and 2 lace scarves

Super toasty warm scarf patterns. Here are 3 more really nice patterns. Love the hooded pattern for when it is really cold out. I have a few of those scarves myself!

Hooded Scarf Pattern
Hooded Scarf Pattern

Hooded Scarf Pattern

This is so warm. Great to have on when the weather is changeable too. Just slip the hood on when needed. It even has pockets to slip your hands into to keep them warm too.

Click here to get the free pattern

Leaf Lace Scarf
Leaf Lace Scarf

Leaf Lace Scarf

A beautiful scarf for those who love to knit lace.

Click here for the lace scarf pattern

Morning Surf Scarf
Morning Surf Scarf

Morning Surf Scarf Pattern

Another one for the lace lovers. This is simple yet lovely.

Click here for the free pattern (requires signup)

If you like these free scarf patterns do me a favor and share them!

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