For this project you’ll need:
HOOK: 3.50 mm hook or size E hook for the US. Also you will need a 4.50 mm or 5mm size H hook just to make the beginning chain to ensure it’s not to tight.
YARN: 2 skeins of Light Worsted 3 ply US, 8 ply AU
100 grams / 3.5. oz
240 meters / 262 yards
This stitch is done in multiples of 6 + 2
ch = Chain
sl st = Slip Stitch
st = Stitch
beg = beginning
sc = Single Crochet
TRC = Triple Crochet
*( )* = Repeat what is in the brackets til end of row
I have knit just about every kind of shawl and scarf imaginable over the years and designed quite a few originals but I always tended to gravitate towards the traditional top-down triangular construction with increases in the center and along the edges until I found a wonderful antique lace pattern that I didn’t think would lend itself well to this method. So I decided to do a short row shawl and the more I work on it, the more I really enjoy the short row construction and how much more versatile it is for customizing the size and shape of your shawl.
I love shawlettes and scarves and admit I am a little obsessed with them. I have a really large collection of them and I think between my scarves and shawls I could almost wear a different one everyday during the winter months without wearing the same one twice. LOL Most shawls are rather large and the points can be kind of thick so they don’t always lend well to wrapping around your neck in a scarf-like fashion. This is especially true for ones knit in a heavier gauge of wool. The short row scarf allows you to easily narrow those ends while maintaining the pattern without a lot of complicated graphing and calculations.
The advantages of using short rows to shape your scarf is that, unlike decreasing stitches at the beginning and end of each row, when you are finished and ready to add an edging, there is no need to pick-up and knit stitches along the outer edge as the stitches are all still on your needles and ready to go.
Another big advantage, for me anyway, is that you start out with many stitches on the needle while you are excited about the project and as the piece goes along, the rows become shorter and shorter making it feel like an easy knit. I don’t know about you, but sometimes I begin to get bored with a shawl pattern after working it for a few weeks. With this method of knitting a shawl, I don’t seem to have the same problem because by the time I begin to feel a bit bored with the pattern, the rows start to move faster and I am done in no time!
How to knit a short row shawl:
- Choose your lace pattern
- Choose your yarn
- Choose your needles
- Knit a swatch of the lace pattern so you can test the gauge to know how many stitches you will need to cast on for your desired length.
- Cast on the desired number of stitches adding 2 or 3 stitches on each end for a garter stitch border.
- Knit 2-3 rows of your pattern and then begin doing short rows.
- If you want a traditional triangle, knit one stitch less at each end of row (leaving the unworked stitches on the needle and placing a marker when you turn so you will easily know where to turn on the returning row).
- For narrower ends, I work to within 3 stitches of the end of the previous row and turn. This makes a shallower shawlette that is perfect as a scarf.
- Work back and forth in shorter and shorter rows until your shawl is the size you want. If you want it triangular you will work right down to one or 2 stitches, if you want it to be more semi-circular shaped, you will just stop when it is the right shape. Then work 3-4 rows of garter stitch before beginning your edging stitches or just bind off loosely if you want a plain edge.
Give the short row shawl a try. It is ideal for any lace stitch or striped yarn that you do not want to have an obvious increase worked in the center as you would with the traditional triangular shawl construction. It also is great for self striping yarns that you want to have nice horizontal stripes instead of the V shape.
Once summer arrives we often forget about knitting but these pretty tops are just begging to be added to your summer wardrobe.
This Lavender Sleeveless Wrap Top pattern is a perfect piece to add to your summer must-haves. It easily goes from day to night and dress down to dress up. It is worked in reverse stocking stitch and trimmed in seed stitch. Because it is worked in size 5mm (US 8) needles it is also a nice quick take along project for vacation. Download the free summer knit pattern here. (pdf)
Knit Tank Top Pattern
This knit tank top will soon be your favorite go-to summer top. It is very versatile looking just as pretty with a soft flowing skirt for a night out as it does with capri or shorts on the beach. Knit in cool summer cotton or linen yarn and it will help you stay cool in the hot weather. Find the free knit tank top pattern here.
Super sexy and figure flattering, this stretch knit halter top deserves to be included in your summer knits. Worked up in a cotton/elastic yarn, it hugs your curves. Because of the design and the vertical textured pattern it has a very slimming effect. What more could a girl ask for? Get the free summer halter top pattern here.
This is another go-to pattern for a comfy and sporty little summer knit tank top. Wear it on its own or over a tee. The pattern calls for a fun ribbon yarn and is knit on 6mm (US10) needles so you know you can whip this one up in a hurry. Make it this weekend! Get the free knit tank top pattern here.
I love this sleeveless top pattern. It is fun and funky while at the same time has a classic look about it. You can wear it on its own or wear the coordinating shrug layered over the top on cool evenings. Get the free sleeveless top summer knit pattern here.
Edges and finishing details can make a plain garment come to life. I am always looking for ways to dress up my designs and projects so I thought that maybe you would like to have a list of a few really nice rib stitches that are a little different than your basic k1, p1 or 2×2 ribbing. If you have a favorite fancy collar or cuff stitch please do share in the comments!
Fancy Slip Stitch Rib (multiples of 5)
Row 1:[RS] p2, k1, sl 1, k1
Row 2: p3, k2
Rick Rack Rib Stitch (multiples of 3)
Row 1: [RS] Take right-hand needle behind left-hand needle. Skip the first stitch and knit into the back loop of the second stitch. Then knit skipped stitch through the front loop. The slip both stitches from the needle together; p1
Row 2: With yarn in front, skip the first stitch and purl the second stitch. The purl the skipped stitch. The slip both stitches from needle together; k1
Image compliments of Chrisknits
Baby Cables Rib (multiples of 4)
Row 1: [WS] p2, k2
Row 2: k2, p2
Row 3: p2, k2
Row 4: k2 together, leaving both stitches on needle; then insert right-hand needle between the 2 stitches just knitted together, and knit the first st again; then slip both stitches from needle together, p2
Cable Rib Stitch (multiples of 3)
Row 1: [RS] p1, k2,
Rows 2, 3, 4 & 5: knit all knit stitches and purl all purl stitches
Row 6: p1, skip next stitch, k into second st leaving on needle, k into skipped sts, slip both sts off needle together.
Lace Rib Stitch (multiple of 6 sts)
Rows 1 and 3 (WS) *P2, k1; rep from *, end p2.
Row 2 *K2, p1, yo, ssk, p1; rep from *, end k2.
Row 4 *K2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from *, end k2.
There are two things I just love. Using recycled materials for knitting…..and knitting socks. Kollage Yarns just introduced a new recycled denim yarn and I just could not say no to it!
Since I am challenging myself to design a new pair of socks each month, I just had to have this yarn for my next project.
I can’t wait to get my hands on this. The yarn is called Riveting and is 100% made from recycled blue jeans. I have many design ideas going through my head on what type of socks to make with this yarn but it won’t be delivered for a few more days so I will wait until I feel and see it before really planning out the design.
I guess that means I have two days to complete the sock design on my needles now! I best get busy!
Okay…so I am very excited because my city has a new yarn store. Well, maybe not new, but I just discovered it and I am overjoyed! It doesn’t take much to get me excited about more yarn.
If you are visiting Peterborough, Ontario, please do check out Needles in the Hay yarn shop. So, as you can imagine, I bought just a bit of new yarn on my first visit. I confess that I am a bit of a yarn hoarder, but I just can’t resist it when I put my hand on a wonderful sock yarn that feels so soft and it is just calling to me to knit it up.
This year I have set myself the challenge of designing at least one new pair of socks per month. My first pair is in the works.
This is such a nice sock yarn. It is the new Ultra Alpaca Fine from Berroco in Redwood colour. It has such a nice heather quality that is very rich looking and so soft to the touch. My feet are just itching for them to be finished. I am designing a basic toe-up sock pattern in a variation of the garter rib stitch. Stay tuned for the pattern to be posted soon.
Also on my needles is a new baby knitted t-shirt and beanie.
I am using the Vestee baby pattern from knitty.com but using a finer yarn and making adjustments for a smaller size. The wool I am using is Louet 100% merino superwash in the Lilypad colour.
I adore knitting for babies and am so happy I now have a new grand baby coming to knit for (not that I particularly need an excuse to knit LOL)
Are you a sockaholic too? Care to share you favorite sock patterns? Leave a comment with a link to your most-loved socks.
For many years, English knitting was the only style of knitting most North Americans knitters used. It is how I learned to knit and I still enjoy this style for a wide variety of knitting projects.
With the popularity of how-to videos on YouTube in recent years, other styles of knitting have become popular. Most people now have heard of Continental style of knitting but not many know about a third style of knitting called Portuguese style.
Each style of knitting has it’s merits. If you take the time to learn all three styles of knitting, you can then match the style to your current knitting project. This will allow you to knit more efficiently and complete your projects faster.
English Knitting or Throwing
This is the traditional style of knitting where the yarn is held in the right hand and all of the work is done with the right hand. The left hand just holds the work. Although this is considered a slower method of knitting, many people can zip right along by changing the way they hold the yarn and the needles.
You can see a video here of English knitting.
Continental knitting is a style of knitting where the yarn is held in the left hand and the left hand does the majority of the work. It is believed that this is a faster method of knitting because the amount of movement of the hands is reduced. Personally, I do find the knitting to be a bit faster than English style (although I am a pretty fast knitter anyway) but I do find the continental style purl stitch to be extremely awkward.
You can see a video demonstration of Continental knitting here.
Portuguese or Arabic Knitting
Although this is a very new style to many North Americans, it is one of the oldest knitting styles originating in Arabia. Originally, the yarn was passed behind the neck to create tension but in recent times, people use knitting pins or pendants rather than their neck for a more comfortable knitting experience.
Like continental knitting, there is very little hand movement in Portuguese knitting but the biggest advantage is the ease with which you can perform the purl stitch. Purling in Portuguese style is actually faster than knit. This style of knitting has become a personal favorite of mine. Another advantage of this style of knitting is that you get perfect and consistent tension on all your stitches.
You can see a video demonstration of Portuguese knitting here.
I find that I fall back to my old English style knitting when doing intricate knitting. Continental knitting is perfect for garter stitch or knitting in the round. You can blaze right along using this style. Portuguese knitting is the best method for doing stocking stitch or any pattern that requires you to do knit and purl rows.
I find that by using all three styles of knitting I am able to complete many more garments in a shorter amount of time. I hope that you will give them all a try too. Please leave a comment on how you are getting along with the three knitting styles.
This little hat is easy to make if you are looking for something a little different. The mock cables are simple and do not require a cable needle. The hat is very stretchy so it will fit a wide variety of baby head sizes. I have also included instructions for 6 months and 12 months.
Bernat Softee Baby 1 ball, color shown is Funny Prints
Set of 4.5mm double point needles
Cast on 45 [50, 60]sts on DPN. Place 15 sts on needle 1 and 2 and 12 sts on needle 3.
Work K1,P1 rib for 1 1/2 – 2 inches.
Mock Cable Pattern:
Rows 1 & 2: *K3, P2. Repeat from * around.
Row 3: *Sl1, K2, PSSO, P2. Repeat from * around.
Row 4: *K1, YO, K1, P2. Repeat from * around.
Work in the mock cable pattern for 4 1/2 inches ending with Row 3.
Row 1: *K2, P2. Repeat from * around.
Row 2: *K2, P2tg. Repeat from * around.
Row 3: *K2, P1. Repeat from * around.
Row 4: *K2tg, P1. Repeat from * around.
Row 5: *K1, P1. Repeat from * around.
Row 6: *K2tg. Repeat from * around.
Row 7: Knit.
Optional: Work I-cord sprout on the top. If you do not know how to do an I-cord, here is a video that will help.
If you choose not to do an eye cord, you can finish off by threading a tapestry needle and drawing the yarn through the remaining stitches on the needles. Draw it up tight to close the hole and fastening off the yarn securely. Weave in ends.
This would be so pretty in a little girl’s room or in any shabby chic decor. You can also use bits and pieces of this pattern for embellishments for a variety of uses such as scrap booking, card making and as little details on clothing.
MATERIALS—Lily Pearl Cotton, size 5: — 2-balls Lt Ecru, and partial ball each Blue, Lt. Steel Blue, Salmon Rose and Mid-Apple Green. Lily Six Strand Floss.—2-skems each Maroon and Dk. Green. 1-skein each Dp. Peach, Black, Med. Green, Dusty Rose and Dk. Salmon Rose (or other colors), 1\2-yd. Oyster White linen, 1\2-yd. Lt. Green muslin A picture frame 13″xl6″ glass size. Crochet hook size 5.
MAT—Cut cardboard for a loose fit in frame. Cut out center 3″ from bottom, 2″ from other 3 sides. Cut linen 1″ outside edges, pull taut and fasten on back with gummed tape, slashing inside corners. In Lt. Ecru, make ch 2″ longer than bottom width, tr in 15th st from hook, (ch 4, tr in next 5th st) repeated across for width (stretched). Cut off excess ch.
ROW 2—Ch 9, turn, tr in next tr, (ch 4, tr in next tr) across to 5th st of end ch. Repeat 4 times to cover bottom. Then work up each side (4 sps wide). Connect top corners with a ch (5 ch for each sp minus 1
st), and work 4 rows across top Fasten off. Stretch and pin down in exact size. Steam and press dry thru a cloth. Tack to edges of Mat.
1ST PEONY—In 3 strands Black Floss, ch 8, sl st in 1st st. Ch 1, 16 sc in ring. In back loops, sl st in 1st sc, (ch 1, 2 dc in next sc, ch 1, sc in next) 8 times. Fasten off. Turn, in remaining loops of Row 1, join Dp. Peach, ch 4, 2 tr in same st, (2 tr in next st, 3 tr in next) around (40 sts). Fasten off.
Join Maroon in both loops, (hdc and dc in next st, 2 tr in next, 3 tr in next, dc and hdc in next, sc in next) 8 times. Fasten off.
CENTER—In Salmon Rose ch 7, sl st in 1st st, (ch 6, sl st in same st) 7 times. Sew on center.
2ND PEONY—Repeat Rows 1 and 2, make Row 3 in Maroon and Row 4 in Dk. Salmon Rose. Repeat Center.
1ST LARKSPUR—In Salmon Rose, * ch 10, sl st in 4th st from hook, ch 2, sl st in next 2d st, (ch 6, sl st in 4th st from hook, ch 2, sl st in next 2 st) 4 times, sk these 5 petals, sl st in next ch st. Repeat from * 10 times.
TIP END—(Ch 8, sl st in 4th st, ch 2, sl st in next 2d st) 4 times, sl st in next 2 sts, (ch 6, sl st in 4th st, ch 2, sl st in next 2d st, sl st in 2 sts between next 2 petals) 3 times. Fasten off.
2ND LARKSPUR—Make 1st 7 flowers in Lt. Steel Blue. Join Blue and make 4 flowers and Tip End.
LILY—In Dp. Peach, ch 5, an 18-loop Clones Knot over ch, sl st in 1st st, (ch 8, a Knot over ch, sl st in 4th st from previous knot) 8 times, ch 20. Fasten off. Join Mid-Apple Green in last st, sc closely over ch, (sc at top of Knot, 5 sc between Knots) repeated to end. Fasten off.
LEAF—In Apple-Green; (ch 11, a 2-tr-Cluster in 6th st from hook, ch 3, sl st in Cluster for a p, ch 5, sl st at base of Cluster, sl st in next st) 6 times, ch 8, a leaf in 6th st, sl st in next 2 sts, (ch 7, a leaf in 6th st, sl st in next st, sl st in 4 sts between leaves) repeated to end. Sew end to center-top of Lily.
PHLOX—In Dusty Rose, ch 4, with 1st st twice usual size, 14 dc in long st, join and fasten off. Join Maroon, (ch 2, sl st in next st) around. Fasten off. In Maroon, make 5 sts from center out to edge and a French Knot in center. Make 5 flowers.
BLUE FLOWERS—In Lt. Steel Blue, ch 7, sl st in 1st st, ch 1, 12 sc in ring, sl st in 1st sc. Fasten off. Join Blue, * ch 2, (dc, ch 3, sl st in 3d st from hook for a p, dc) in next sc, ch 2, sc in next sc. Repeat from * 5 times. Fasten off. Make a Peach French Knot on each petal, with a st down to center ring. Make 2 flowers.
LEAVES— In Dk. Green, ch 6, * sl st in 4th st from hook for a p, (ch 5, p) 6 times, dc between 3d and 4th ps from hook, (ch 4, p, dc between next 2 ps) 3 times, ch 4, p, ch 1, sk next p, sl st in next 2d st, * ch 6. Repeat from * to *. Fasten off.
2D SPRAY—Ch 25 and repeat from * to *, ch 12 and repeat from * to *. Fasten off.
SMALL LEAVES—In Dk. Green, ch 12, (2 dc, a 3-ch p in last dc, 2 dc, ch 2 and sl st) all in 4th st from hook, sl st in next st, (ch 10, another leaf in 4th st from hook) 3 times. Fasten off. Make a 2d spray with 3 leaves.
LARGE LEAF—In Med. Green, ch 15, sc in 2d st, * (hdc in next 2 dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next) 3 times, * (hdc, 3 dc and hdc) in end st, sc in next on other side of ch. Repeat from * to *. Fasten off.
ROW 2— Join Dk. Green in same end st, ch 3 and in back loops, dc in next st, (2 dc in next, 1 dc in next) twice, hdc in sc between scallops, * (dc in next st, 2 dc in next dc in 2 sts, hdc in sc) twice, * dc in next st, 2 dc in next, (2 dc, 3-ch p, 2 dc) in next st, 2 dc in next, 1 .dc in next, hdc in sc. Repeat from * to *. 1 dc in next st, (2 dc in next) 3 times, 1 dc in next, sl st in 3-ch, ch 10, 9 sc on ch. Fasten off.
STEMS—Starting at left. 1ST STEM—In Apple Green, ch 25, cover ch with sc.
2ND STEM — In Med. Green, start with 20-ch.
3RD STEM—In Dk. Green, start with 17-ch.
4TH STEM—In Med. Green, start with 44-ch. (Connect this up to Salmon Rose Larkspur).
5TH STEM —In Dk. Green, start with 35-ch.
Cut Green muslin 1″ larger all around than mat opening. Pin motifs on muslin, following illustration, then tack lightly. Twist larkspur sprays so flowers are on alternate sides of ch stem. When finished, stretch and pin right-side-down, and steam and press dry thru a cloth. Fasten with gummed tape on a 2d piece of cardboard cut 1\8″ smaller than outside of frame. Place glass and mat in frame, then tack 2d cardboard on back of frame, with very short nails or tacks.
This pretty vintage doily is so lacy and feminine. The little roses also make nice embellishments for cards, scrapbook pages and clothing.
DAISY Mercerized Crochet Cotton, Art. 65, Size 20: 1 1\2 skeins each Lt. Pink and Shd. Pinks; or Lily MERCROCHET Mercerized Crochet Cotton, Art 161, Size 20: 2 balls each Baby Pink and Shd. Pinks. No. 12 Steel Crochet Hook.
SIZE – 20 inches.
ROSE: With Shd. Pinks, ch 7, join with sl st to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 5, dc in ring, (ch 2, dc in ring) 6 times, ch 2, join to 3d st of ch-5.
Rnd 2: In each sp around make sc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, sc.
Rnd 3: Sl st around bar of starting chain in 1st Rnd (inserting hook from back to front), ch 6, (dc around bar of next dc in Rnd 1, ch 3) repeated around; join to 3d st of ch-6.
Rnd 4: In each sp around make sc, ch 1, 5 dc, ch 1, sc.
Rnd 5: Sl st around bar of starting chain on last dcrnd, ch 7, (dc around bar of next dc in previous dc rnd, ch 4) repeated around; join to 3d st of ch-7.
Compilation Copyright © 2004 Maria Vowell All Rights Reserved 30
Rnd 6: In each sp around make sc, ch 1, 7 dc, ch 1, sc. Fasten off.
Make 8 Roses. Sew tog. into a circle, with 2 free petals between joinings on each Rose on inside of circle, and 4 free petals on each Rose on outside of circle. Make a 9th Rose. Attach Lt. Pink to center dc on 1 petal. To join this Rose in center of 8-Rose circle, ch 7, sl st in lefthand petal of 2 petals on 1 Rose in circle, * ch 4, sl st in 1st petal on next Rose, ch 7, sc in next petal on center Rose, ch 7, sl st in next petal on same Rose on circle; repeat from * around; join, fasten off, Make a 2d circle of 16 Roses. Sew tog. by opposite petals into a straight row then sew end Roses tog. To join to 1st circle, attach Lt. Pink to 2d petal on 1 Rose in 1st circle, ch 7, sl st in center petal on 1 Rose in 2d circle, * ch 7, sc back in next petal on same Rose in 1st circle, ch 12, sl st in center petal on next Rose in 2d circle, ch 12, sc back in 2d petal m next Rose on 1st circle, ch 7, sl st in center petal on next Rose in 2d circle; repeat from * around; join, fasten off.
1st LEAF SPRAY: Attach Lt. Pink to 2d petal on 1 Rose in 2d circle, ch 17, * sc in 3d ch from hook, ** on chain make 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sl st; * (ch 25, repeat from * to *) twice; (sc in next 8 ch between leaves, ch 17, repeat from * to *) twice (5 leaves); sl st in same st on Rose, fasten off.
2d. SPRAY: Attach to 2d petal on next Rose, ch 16, join to last leaf on previous Spray, sk 1 st of ch-16, sc in next ch; repeat from ** around Doily (16 Sprays), joining 1st and last leaves.
BORDER: Rnd 1: Attach Lt. Pink to tip of 1 Spray, ch 1, sc in same place, * ch 15, sc in next leaf, ch 13, sc in joining of Sprays, ch 13, sc in next leaf, ch 15, sc in next (center) leaf; repeat from * around; join to 1st sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 3 sc in same sc, * 16 sc in next sp, sc in next sc, 14 sc in next sp, 8 sc in next sp, join with sl st in 8th sc up previous sp, 6 sc in bal. of sp, sc in next sc, 16 sc in next sp, 3 sc in next sc* repeat from * around; join to 1st sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 5, * (dc, ch 3, dc) in next (center) sc, ch 2, dc in next sc, (ch 2, sk 2 sc, dc in next sc) 7 times, sk final 2 sc on same sp, dc in
Compilation Copyright © 2004 Maria Vowell All Rights Reserved 31
3d sc on next sp, (ch 2, sk 2 sc, dc in next sc) 7 times, ch 2, repeat from * around; join to 3d st of ch-5.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next sp, sc in next dc, * sc in next (center) sp, 3 sc in 2d st of same sp, 1 sc in bal. of sp, (sc in next dc, 2 sc in next sp) 8 times, sk 2 dc in angle, (2 sc in next sp, sc in next dc) 8 times; repeat from * around; join to 1st sc.
Rnd 5: Sl st to center sc on next point, ch 1, sc in same sc, * ch 10, sc in same sc, ch 19, (sc, ch 10, sc) in same sc, (ch 8, sk 5 sc, sc in next sc) 4 times, (ch 8, sc in next sc) 5 times, (ch 8, sk 5 sc, sc in next sc) 4 times to center st on next point; repeat from * around, making ch 4, dc in 1st sc for final lp.
Rnd 6: * (Ch 8, sc in next lp) repeated to center long lp at next point, ch 10, sc in same lp, ch 19, (sc, ch 10, sc) in same lp; repeat from * around, making ch 4, dc in dc at end of previous rnd for final lp.
Repeat Rnd 6 twice.
Rnd 9: Repeat Rnd 6 except make ch-10 lps instead of ch-8 lps; join, fasten off.
Edge: Attach Shd. Pinks to 9th st of ch-19 lp on 1 point, ch 5, tr in same st, ** (ch 6, sl st in 5th ch from hook for a p) twice, ch 2, holding back the last lp of each tr on hook, make 2 tr in next (center) ch, yo and draw thru all 3 lps on hook at same time (2-tr Cluster), (ch 6, p) twice, ch 2, 2-tr Cluster in same ch, * (ch 6, p) twice, ch 2, 2-tr Cluster in next ch, ch 6, sc in next lp, ch, 6, 2-tr Cluster in 5th ch of next lp; * repeat from * to * 9 times; ch 4, sk 5 shells, join with sl st in 1st p on next shell, ch 2, sk 2 ch of ch-4, sl st in next ch, ch 4, sl st in next p on same opposite shell, ch 2, sk 2 ch of ch-4, sl st in next ch, ch 2, 2-tr Cluster in next ch of same lp, ch 6, sc in next lp, ch 6, 2-tr Cluster in 5th ch of next lp, repeat from * to * twice; (ch 6, p) twice, ch 2, 2-tr Cluster in next ch, ch 6, sc in next lp, ch 6, 2-tr Cluster in 9th ch of next ch-19 lp; repeat from * around; join to 1st tr, fasten off.
Starch Doily, stretch and pin, right-side-up on waxed paper and block as illustrated. Leave until dry.